I started a sock using the No-Purl Monkey pattern, with Thank Ewe sock yarn. This poor yarn has had a few false starts already, but I think this combination is a keeper.In other news, it's baking time.
I'll see you on the other side...
I started a sock using the No-Purl Monkey pattern, with Thank Ewe sock yarn. This poor yarn has had a few false starts already, but I think this combination is a keeper.
I'll see you on the other side...
It's just a generic top-down stocking stitch sock. The yarn is Red Heart Heart & Sole, a self-patterning wool/nylon fingering with aloe. It's nice to knit with and the price is right (around $4 per ball at the local big box craft place, even less if you have a coupon). I was quite disappointed by the inconsistent dye job though. Compare the two heels:
These were knit from two separate balls from the same dyelot, but one ball has long sections that were fainter in color. Because I really like the matchy look with such busy color patterns, I'm careful to get the color sections to line up. It's usually easy enough with machine-dyed yarns. Imagine my surprise to find the colors varying from ball to ball, and even within each ball! That's an *ARGH* followed by a *sigh.* I'll stick to Garnstudio Fabel. It's about the same price, without the non-matchy heartbreak. *sniffle*
This is Katia Nordic, with odds and ends I had lying around used for the single crochet trim. I would have put tassels on (yay tassels!), but there wasn't much yarn left in either skein. I have another full skein left in each color, so mittens maybe?
Mmmm, squishy... There is the twist problem with this twining technique though, and I was especially wary of it given that Kureyon is a single without all that much twist. There was the very real possibility that the portion of the strand I was working with would become untwisted and break. As I knit the row, the yarn would feel a little bit looser, so after each row, I'd untwist by pulling each of the strands in opposite directions with the work dangling in between. The scarf (for the end of the scarf, I pinned it up into a bundle with my circs) would spin and release that built up twist.
It took more than two hours to get through the line, so I got a lot done. The sock also went to Stitches with me.
Now my sock knows how to vote and how to escape from a flaming marc train. Clever sock!
For the Bohus, I'm trying to decide whether to just do some ribbing and call it a cuff, or join a different fingering yarn and make a sock. What do you think? Socks or wrist warmers?
There are purls, twisted stitches, and 2 stitch (one by one) cables worked without a cable needle. If you look at the first set of left-leaning cables (the left side of the bottom right point of the star), you'll see I had some problems at the beginning. There's texture work on both sides, which was both a little confusing and kinda tiring (no rest rows for you!). But I figured it out eventually and the next set of points were much better. I especially like the tight vertical columns of twisted stitches. I'm not a big fan of twisted rib in general, but I think here it's a nice effect.
I had some concerns initially about gauge, or more accurately, needle size. I knit loose and usually go down two needle sizes automatically. So in general, for me, fingering is size 0 US for 7-8 st/in. I heard Bohus was teeny, so I wondered what that meant (my teeny? normal people's teeny?), cuz I own 4/0 needles, but I don't really wanna use 'em, ya know? (That's mostly the double point aversion talking, but there's also some fear of multiple finger pricks.) But I shouldn't have worried. I ended up using double zeros for the ribbed cuff and zeros for the colorwork. It helped that the yarn was a fine fingering weight, plus stranding causes tightening anyway. The toughest part of the exercise turned out to be purling continental, something I don't do very often. I usually do fair isle two handed, so I can actually pick knit stitches when I have to. There's no purling in fair isle, though, hence the rough times working on some of the purl rows.
They were all beautiful, and in great condition too. That shouldn't be surprising, considering both the craftsmanship that went into them and the high prices they were sold for. Here's some detail of the colorwork and label.
The depth you get from the purl stitches is really amazing. Now I'm really itching for my own bohus sweater. But no, I should finish the little Blue Shimmer wristlet/sock top kit first. Then I can think about a bigger kit.
Pretty cool, huh? My progress would be a bit more impressive if these pieces weren't so small. They're about right for a smallish teddy bear. Check out the cuff on the sleeve on the right. It's done in twined (aka two-end) knitting, which I really took too. It's somehow both stretchy and solid. The downside is the strands get twisty as hell while you're working.
I promptly ate the chocolate and decided to use the pretty red Moira yarn - along with a skein of handpainted mohair excavated from the depths of my stash (I'm guessing it's from MDSW '07) - for an fuzzy autumn scarf with badly woven-in ends: